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The baluster is 30 years old, used daily. You can see the dirt accumulated at the most used areas.
How to improve the finish, please? I am thinking about hand sanding all the surfaces and then using the polyurethane varnish.
Location: East of Seattle since 1992, 615' Elevation, Zone 8b - originally from SF Bay Area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maple47
The baluster is 30 years old, used daily. You can see the dirt accumulated at the most used areas.
How to improve the finish, please? I am thinking about hand sanding all the surfaces and then using the polyurethane varnish.
That would be a tremendous amount of work, sanding with those shapes. That big front one at the bottom looks like people have run their hands on it a lot, and the hand oils penetrate the wood so it would have to be sanded more deeply. There are probably other areas like that along the top. If you don't sand deep enough the finish will not be even. I would prefer cleaning it with TSP, then prime and paint, perhaps with a semi-gloss white such as Sherwin-Williams Pure White.
The baluster is 30 years old, used daily. You can see the dirt accumulated at the most used areas.
How to improve the finish, please? I am thinking about hand sanding all the surfaces and then using the polyurethane varnish.
I'm not a huge fan of Murphy's Oil Soap but I'd give a test go and see if it cleans up. Or another similar product.
30yrs ago, poly was in wide use- but there’s always the possibility that the original finish could be lacquer or varnish.
With that in mind, it’s always a good practice to use the least evasive means of cleaning to start with, and then progress to other more stronger materials. Over the years people have sworn over Murphy’s- I’m not a fan; but it would be considered a least evasive means- keeping the water to a minimum.
Generally, it’s worth understanding what the staining/buildup is. It’s dust, dirt, oil from skin, along with lotions and/or other skin moisturizers. Most of which should be able to be loosened and removed with a light scrubbing of mild detergent and water. If that doesn’t work/remove all debris, try mineral oil. Wipe on, let stand for 15-30mins then wipe off with a clean cloth. If you’re still battling the crud, the next step would probably be mineral spirits (aka-paint thinner). Using a soft cloth, apply mineral spirits to the cloth then gently rub an area moderately. This should loosen and remove any residual crud. Mineral spirits tends to have a somewhat strong odor- use good ventilation. If you’ve gotten to this point and still have stubborn crud, it’s probably time for stripper and refinishing.
30yrs ago, poly was in wide use- but there’s always the possibility that the original finish could be lacquer or varnish.
With that in mind, it’s always a good practice to use the least evasive means of cleaning to start with, and then progress to other more stronger materials. Over the years people have sworn over Murphy’s- I’m not a fan; but it would be considered a least evasive means- keeping the water to a minimum.
Generally, it’s worth understanding what the staining/buildup is. It’s dust, dirt, oil from skin, along with lotions and/or other skin moisturizers. Most of which should be able to be loosened and removed with a light scrubbing of mild detergent and water. If that doesn’t work/remove all debris, try mineral oil. Wipe on, let stand for 15-30mins then wipe off with a clean cloth. If you’re still battling the crud, the next step would probably be mineral spirits (aka-paint thinner). Using a soft cloth, apply mineral spirits to the cloth then gently rub an area moderately. This should loosen and remove any residual crud. Mineral spirits tends to have a somewhat strong odor- use good ventilation. If you’ve gotten to this point and still have stubborn crud, it’s probably time for stripper and refinishing.
My mineral spirit is almost odorless, so no problem here.
Assuming I removed all dirt, using your directions. What finish do I use to protect the clean oak wood, please?
To remove grime from years of hand contact, go over it with 0000 steel wool and mineral spirits. All you've got to cover is the railing and that first post. This is unagressive enough that the basic finish/stain will still be retained.
I'd probably give it two coats of spar varnish after that and declare victory.
Others might disagree, but I suspect that this could easily turn into a horrible experience. Dirt and skin oils can be removed as described above, or with a cleaner that uses a minimal amount of water and/or wiped off immediately.
That would be ALL that I did unless the finish itself was failing. Scrape lightly with your fingernail 24 hours after cleaning. If you get a mess of crud, the finish probably has issues. If not, move on.
You can see a darkish stain on the vertical of the newel post that is in the wood, and covered by the stain/finish. You can see at the top how the very top was fine sanded and sealed (or less likely, worn with time), but the cut-out area of the turning just under that was left unsealed with open pores, which allowed it to absorb more stain and be darker.
The transition from the turning has some expected wear of the finish that might be touched up after a cleaning with a touch-up stick, but as far as excess dirt and grime as a problem? I wonder if you are confusing it with the effects of staining.
In any event, once you sand you are going to discover how the stain has penetrated unevenly, due to the varying porosity of the wood. The cut-out area is never going to be as light as other areas.
My mineral spirit is almost odorless, so no problem here.
Assuming I removed all dirt, using your directions. What finish do I use to protect the clean oak wood, please?
It really boils down to what the original finish is.
But if you're willing to put in the elbow-grease, I'd go the extra step and sand- starting with 220. Then go to 320 and 2-3 coat of polyurethane. Oil-based is harder when cured, but tends to "yellow" as the years go by. Water-based is not as hard, but doesn't yellow. Water-based is also an easier cleanup.
OP~ What you have on your baluster and banister is dirt/dust mixed with skin oils from hands. All typically normal. (You should see the back of your steering wheel!)
Anyway, before you get out the sander and lathe, try a de-greaser.
Simple green works ok.
Simple Orange works great.
There's also a Yellow product at dollar general/99 cent store. This works well, too.
Spray some on the wood, agitate it with your old tooth brush, then wipe off with a clean towel.
Based on your pictures (thank you, btw,) you should have everything perfect in 10-15 minutes.
I've been checking out YouTube videos about people refinishing furniture. The first thing they do is thoroughly clean with a soap and water, mostly they seem to use simple green. I would do the same if I was going to tackle your job. Then at least two coats of a water based clear finish, not a gloss but a satin.
I recently finished some tables and used a water based poly clear coat finish. The legs were turned legs so a lot of texture. The water based poly is very thin and tends to run and drip. So I took some advice from someone. Use a piece of clean cotton knit, like from a T-shirt and wipe it on. Between coats "sand" lightly after the first coat, just barely with the finest sand paper. Put on second coat. If you feel the need to sand between coats use a piece of a brown paper grocery bag for sanding, it's just enough and all you need. You don't have to be super through with sanding, just a simple light wiping is enough.
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