Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Ok, if you've read any of my photography posts, you know I'm a novice.
But I needed a lens to help me when I'm outdoors, particularly with wildlife shots.
I ordered and should receive today this lens "Canon 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS EF USM LENS", per B&H Photo.
Any pointers?
My BIL said this should be a very good lens and that I now have a pretty good assortment. So are there any secrets/tips you seasoned folks can help me out with it?
You have probably already heard how the IS can cause problems when used on a tripod. Latest gen lenses have less problems than early verisons, but the IS is expecting vibration and if there is none it seems to make it's own. It eats battery juice while on, so when not needed it makes sense to turn it off.
I have the 70-200 and love the IS! I rented the Sigma 50-500 for used during a trip to Alaska and found myself using the 70-200 with a teleconverter, giving up 100mm of legnth, just because of the IS and faster focusing. I wish I had the 70-300 and a converter on that trip instead of the Bigma.
You have probably already heard how the IS can cause problems when used on a tripod. Latest gen lenses have less problems than early verisons, but the IS is expecting vibration and if there is none it seems to make it's own. It eats battery juice while on, so when not needed it makes sense to turn it off.
I have the 70-200 and love the IS! I rented the Sigma 50-500 for used during a trip to Alaska and found myself using the 70-200 with a teleconverter, giving up 100mm of legnth, just because of the IS and faster focusing. I wish I had the 70-300 and a converter on that trip instead of the Bigma.
Well, I shoot a lot with the camera on "Auto". I'm a bit concerned in using it in the auto mode since I don't know how the camera compensates for what it 'sees' vs. what really is. In other words, if I zoomed in on an area that the camera thinks needs a flash, will the flash try and fire in auto mode.
Also, on converters, do you lose any image quality? What would be a good converter with that lens on my Canon Rebel DSLR?
Well, I shoot a lot with the camera on "Auto". I'm a bit concerned in using it in the auto mode since I don't know how the camera compensates for what it 'sees' vs. what really is. In other words, if I zoomed in on an area that the camera thinks needs a flash, will the flash try and fire in auto mode.
Also, on converters, do you lose any image quality? What would be a good converter with that lens on my Canon Rebel DSLR?
thanks again, John.
Yes, you will find that the camera does not distinguish well between close enough and too far away for flash. You will do yourself a big service if you start learning to shoot in manual mode. You will learn more, become more proficient at getting what you want instead of what you can get, and you will enjoy being able to manipulate your images to get multiple versions of the same scene. This will also help eliminate that flash dilemna.
With a converter you will always lose some image quality. How much depends on the quality of the glass, light and fstop involved. There is less distortion near the "sweet spot" of the lens and that spot gets bigger in the middle fstops. You will lose one to two fstops by using a converter. One stop for a 1.4x and two stops for a 2x. You will find some slower lenses (5.6 and slower) cannot autofocus with a converter. You will also find that some converters only work with select lenses due to the glass clearance at the camera mount area.
I had a Canon 2x and it would only work with Canon's L series lenses, so I could only use it with my 70-200, and a Tamron 1.4x that would work with the Bigma. The Bigma was so slow and my light was low enough that I could not get a good image the times I tried that combo. I was also on a bus that rocked as all the other people rushed to see the cute baby bears. Played heck with trying to keep the box on the focus point at 500mm!
I had an older 100-300mm lens that would not work with either converter. That would have been a sweet combo.
I thought I would find the 2x not worthwhile and be very tempted to buy the Bigma, but actually found the opposite for me. The faster focus speed of the 70-200, even with the converter, and the IS were well worth giving up the extra mms of the Bigma.
You will have to experiment to see what works best for you. I did find a site that rents lenses and even has converters. I would recommend trying this route if you cannot find a local shop that will let you put it on your camera before buying it. I used lensrental.com since they were the only ones I could find that would let me reserve a lens and ship it to me when it came in. Everyone else was first come first serve and often the lens would be gone within hours of it's return.
Keep in mind that at full zoom, even tiny shakes are magnified, so you may end up with blurry images if the shutter speed is too low.
You can also play around with zooming in/out during a long exposure (i.e. slow shutter speed) -- you can create some nice effects. I'll try to dig up some examples.
I have to Canon 100-400 IS lens and I love it. Be sure if you use a tripod turn off the IS. I photograph birds and it's great for that. Does yours have the focusing distance range selector switch? That is great feature. If you are photographing anything moving like birds put your camera in the AIServo mode. I use the aperture mode the most, you set the aperture and the camera sets the shutter speed. I usually use a F5.6 to F8 on the aperture. This probably greek to you right now, but you will get it as you practice, which you have to do a lot.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.