Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
As far as pictures are concerned it is FAR harder to take a clear picture than most would believe. Even the slightest amount of movement or shake of the camera, including depressing the button to take the bloody picture can result in motion blur. The slightest amount of motion blur can make the difference in being able to see and not being able to see especially if the picture has to be zoomed in. Holding the camera completely still for ONE FULL SECOND after the "click" is heard is critical to prevent motion blur.
all handheld . so here is what i do , i is set the camera to manual. i pick a nice fast speed , say around 1/250th or higher , then i pick the aperture i want for good depth of field. i then use auto iso to float freely to lock exposure.
Steady hands and a high shutter speed can never be underestimated. However, you can develop the skills necessary to shoot steadier photos with a little practice.
Take a deep breath, let it halfway out as you press down to release the shutter. It should almost be a surprise exactly when the shutter clicks.
This advice holds true for every film camera and most prosumer to pro dSLRs. Point and shoot digital cameras and cell phones may experience more shutter lag, in which case, yes. Take your breath, let it halfway out, press the shutter and don't continue your breathing motion for a count of one-two. This should help mitigate natural body movement/hand shake in images.
i use the self timer set for 1 or 2 seconds many times . it is a lot easier to hold steady if you are not pushing down on the shutter at the same time.
in fact this is where my fuji x100s blows away a dslr including my nikon d800.
because the see through glass optical viewer never goes dark when you press the shutter on the camera when using the timer the optical viewer lets you concentrate on a reference point while the self timer is counting down and i can handhold in low light with amazing clarity.
this was handheld using the self timer set for 2 seconds on the fuji x100s and just referencing something through the optical glass viwer to hold steady on. when we travel i never drag the dslr's or a tripod anymore
these are taken in montreal canada at notra-dame in low light. .
Last edited by mathjak107; 06-03-2015 at 03:45 AM..
Yep, what he said. I took this and it was way under 1 sec and holding it . . .
I don't know what you're using for a camera but you want something with f stop is 2.8 or lower. The lens I used was a 90-300mm with an f stop of 2.0
I know this is an old thread ... but ...
I don't think your camera/lens combo has a 90-300mm zoom and an aperture of 2.0. It'd be quite expensive even if it existed I would think.
Looking at the EXIF data for the photo, the lens you used had a maximum aperature of f2.8, so you couldn't have had a 2.0 aperture. The EXIF records your aperture for that shot as 4.0. Which is still fast for a long lens, but not as fast as 2.0. The photo's shutter speed was 1/160th of a second.
To the original question-asker:
There are two causes of blur: The camera moves or the subject moves. To prevent camera shake, an experienced photographer usually tries to keep the denominator of their shutter speed higher than the focal length of their lens.
So, for example, if you have a 100mm lens, you'd want to always shoot with a shutter speed of 1/100th of a second or faster. If you have a 50mm lens, a shutter speed of 1/50th of a second or faster, etc. Some individuals can go a little slower, some need to stay a little faster, but the relationship of shutter speed to lack of blur is important to limit blur you might cause by moving too much. In general, if you find it hard to have not-blurry photos, you want to keep the shutter speed as high as possible.
The other thing is the subject. If you're photographing a building with no people in the frame, obviously it doesn't matter. You can use a tripod if you want. If you're hand-holding you only need to use the rule above. But for living subjects, if you want crisp images, you want to stay above about 1/250th of a second. Or above 1/1000th of a second or more for fast-paced action.
If you abide by those, you should get crisp photos most of the time. There are, of course, factors that influence your ability to have high shutter speeds and not have a dark photo, and those are aperture, and ISO speed.
When it comes to aperture, the smaller the number the more light can get in, the faster your shutter can be and still not have a dark photo.
When it comes to ISO, the bigger the number the more sensitive your sensor will be. But also if the ISO is too high it will cause graininess. How high before you get grainy depends on the camera - it could be grainy anywhere from 800 ISO to not until 12800 ISO.
So that's the triad of settings to determine how your photos come out. - ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. Learn about them and their relationship to each other and it will greatly increase your ability to get decent shots in any sort of setting.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
[/url].JPG)
