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Well I have a pretty good idea of what to expect from these two towns. I guess what I am looking for is some good ol' biased opinions! I want to hear from people who love or hate these places!
I am a single female, 31. I have an excellent job opportunity at the Marine Base. I love road trips and think I will be okay being that remote considering I can drive to Vegas or the coast on the weekends and a very good friend of mine lives in Victorville.
however, I am a little scared. I would like to settle down a bit more somewhere and I don't see me doing that in the desert. Am I crazy to consider this as a single person? oh...yeah duh there is like a ton of marines there, but I am not sure of the fraternization policies between consultants and military, but I think it is frowned upon.....so that leaves, well.....like 10 other guys? lol...
thoughts? please!? my other post got nothing...please tell me this area is not THAT far removed that people have absolutley nothing to even say about it!
Hello there! I lived in Yucca Valley for ten years (1985 to 1994). I moved there primarily to escape the appalling heat of the Palm Springs (Coachella Valley) area during the May to October "summer season". Yucca Valley, being in the so-called "high desert", was between eight and twelve degrees cooler on average, which was just enough to make it worthwhile.
Anyway, during the years I lived there, it was just beginning to be noticed by people, so there wasn't much happening yet. Another great advantage was almost no smog. Being so close to the monsterous metropolis of Los Angeles, smog was blowing into the Coachella Valley and adding to the misery along with the dangerous heat. My parents lived in Palm Desert (close to Palm Springs) so I frequented that area regularly...and was NOT impressed by it.
As a self-employed artist, my primary activity in Yucca Valley was hiking. Joshua Tree National Park had no entry fee at the time, so I spent LOTS of time exploring that highly unusual park, which I greatly enjoyed. To be honest, the marine base at Twenty-Nine Palms had a few problems. We were always hearing about crimes the marines were involved in, like robbing local stores at gunpoint, beating up people and even derailing a train (!!!) down near San Bernardino. Yikes!
There seemed to be mostly males living around Yucca Valley when I was there. I was a single male in my thirties and females were few and far between, as far as being residents was concerned. Most women I saw (or met) were just visiting from elsewhere or were with male friends. I hear it's a bit more balanced nowadays. My friends in the nearby mountain town of Idyllwild thought I had made a BIG mistake in moving to Yucca Valley, so I was largely on my own during those years.
Eventually, I moved into a small one bedroom "cabin" out in the middle of nowhere, about ten miles out from the center of Joshua Tree (near Yucca Valley). It was within a mile of the marine base perimeter and so I was close to one of there bombing and training areas. But mostly I noticed that people out in this particular area were low income, social misfits who left Los Angeles either by force or by choice. Rarely did I meet anyone who moved to that area from out of state.
Sorry I can't be more informative about the area, but I guess I went from being enthused and interested, to being bored, depressed and very glad to move during my ten years there. But it was definetly better weather than the Coachella Valley (though the winds could become dangerously strong at times).
thank you....pretty interesting assesment! well I can't say I am suprised. I have heard about the book, that a woman wrote about a marine who killed two girls from twentynine palms. It sounds like there are some problems between low income town's people and entitled marines? or maybe it has happened a couple of times anyway, though not something to be expected.
I have also heard about the drug problems.
I have also heard though about the artist community growing, and retirement communities of course.
Well, I don't think I plan to make it my home. But I think I could probably handle it for a couple of years and hopefully get out before I get depressed I do think it would be fascinating for awhile.
My biggest fear is probably just feeling isolated from my peers. But, I have never been one to sit home and let that happen, I will just have to travel!
Thanks a lot for the info! I was getting worried! I knew somoene must have lived there!
After I sent my original response, I remembered that I hadn't mentioned something about the INSECT problem in the SoCal desert areas. Because Yucca Valley IS technically a desert region, they have quite an assortment of bugs that sting and/or bite! I didn't realize any of this until I actually moved there, as I'm sure most people wouldn't either.
First of all, there's the legendary (and frightening) scorpion. Try as you will, these dangerous pests cannot be kept out of a house. As they are primarily "night travelers", they move around and hunt other bugs at night, so you're unlikely to see them. That is, till you see them rocket across your floor or carpet!! They often hide around the bottom door sill of doors that lead outside. So when you open the door, either coming in or going out.....surprise!! These creatures dart inside. You're not expecting it, so you don't see them. But, of course, once inside, they hide till the lights go out! Then, once again, they're in "nighttime hunting mode", where they can be stepped on in the dark or perhaps worse...they crawl into shoes before dawn. You can imagine that!
A scorpion "look alike" is called a "sun spider", and operates in the same way, at night. I recall one very hot summer night, awakening to the feeling something fairly large was crawling around my side, then dashed over my chest, when I started to move! Well, I was FULLY awake in roughly two seconds, my head pounding with fear. I jumped up, turned all the lights on in my room, and spent about two hours searching for this miserable thing, which was found huddling in a dark corner under my bed. Both scorpions and sun spiders have lobster-like claws that grasp the bugs they eat, but they can also pinch peoples skin! These pests range anywhere from two inches to almost five inches. Never bitten, I was told the smaller ones are the most poisonous! Great!
By the way, both scorpions and sun spiders are able to reach remarkable speeds when frightened. They are a REAL challenge to catch and/or kill, but you CAN'T leave them inside, so there you are, looking for a poisonous bug hiding somewhere in your house that becomes active in the dark!
There are also large (up to five inches long) centipedes which also come out at night. These have a poisonous and painful bite and, while not rapid runners, are quite adept at moving around in the dark when they can't be detected. From what I learned, these gruesome insects evolved into coming out at night, due to the extreme heat of the daylight times. It's as dangerous for them, as it is for people, to be in the prolonged desert daylight heat.
Then, we have the ubiquitous ANT. About a dozen varieties. Ranging anywhere from tiny things (about an eighth of an inch) to large ones almost an inch big. It's usually the tiny variety that packs the biggest and most painful bite. And they get into EVERYTHING, eventually, sometime during the hot months (about half the year), despite the best efforts to keep them out. Often, it's a tiny, tiny speck on a counter that the scouts discover (again, usually at night) who then immediately send "word" to the rest of the ants. Next morning....ten million ants crawling like a wave all over the place!
I recall even having to relocate my dogs water dish every few days, as the ants (in search of water/moisture) would discover the water bowl and suddenly a million ants are swarming in and out of the dog dish!! Once there, they're quite difficult to eradicate, as they run off in all directions to hide, only to re-emerge again at nighttime. I could swear some varieties even thrived on poisons and ant spray. Just amazing! Hard core desert bugs, virtually impossible to steer clear of.
And lets not forget the COCKROACHS. Many varieties of these pests, as well. The largest variety, about three inches long, and often referred to by desert folks as "a date palm beetle", which is where they tend to prefer living when outside, in the date palm trees. These awful pests, fortunately, were most commom in the low deserts (Palm Springs) of SoCal. My parents in Palm Desert gave up fighting them after the first five years. They behave just like normal, small size roachs, getting into EVERYTHING, including toasters, kitchen drawers, cabinets, you name it. Being quite large, and strong, they had the ability to actually bite through plastic bags and get into all sorts of food items....not to mention boxes of snack crackers and cereal boxes. You haven't lived till you sleepily open your favorite breakfast cereal box, only to have some HUGE cockroach tumble into your bowl. Or at night, walking to the bathroom and stepping on one of these "little monsters" which let out an audible buzz, and scamper off, unharmed into the darkness of the house! Being so large, they're rather difficult to kill, and usually require multiple HARD blows by something (often a shoe) to finally kill them. I was always amazed at how difficult it was to stop these "giant cockroaches".
Plenty of deadly rattle snakes, too. Also moving about during darkness to avoid heat. They often hide around houses, since there's access to water and/or food. Anyway....spooky, dangerous, disturbing stuff that new arrivals to the desert are often unaware of. All you can REALLY do is keep your eyes open, and hopefully notice quick movements on the floors that would indicate "an intruding insect" on the loose. The realtors are usually evasive on the "bug questions".....but long time residents know the score. This ain't no paradise. Good luck!
okay now that the naseau has passed...thank you for the commentary, in all its gory detail!!!!!!!!!!
I was considering las vegas last year and everyone was telling me the scorpions were not so bad....but I saw those black light movies!! eeeeeeeeeeeeekkkkkkkk
rgb123, I think Nature boy is kind pulling your leg. I recently tripped across a secret meeting in the Back Room at "The Palms BAR (amboy road)" where the locals were plotting to keep people out through hook or crook. AS IN SCARE YOU OFF. "We got ours, ********* newbees. STOP GROWTH" What snakes and bugs? I own 6 properties out there and have yet to see anything but a dead NON POISONOUS snake on utah trail road and one black widow spider up against my house. Of course there are bugs but none in my vehicles, house or trailer. Plenty of harmless lizards and a giant Chuckawalla lives on my property. The lizards march by me with a face like, "beat it, your on MY property and march off." I was born, raised and have a lot of wilderness experience in all parts of California and there is nothing wildlife dangerous out here. I have a place near the main gate to 29. Marines? No problems. I live near US Marines on the coast (Oceanside) and Twentynine Palms. You will be very safe in the Valley. However, the summer heat may kill you. It is hot hot hot in summer. Fall, Winter and Spring are great. Getting stuck in sand is an issue I solved with 4X4 for myself and the wife. There are drugs and a lot of drinking but the people up here are more friendly and willing to talk and share than in the larger cities. And the cops do not mess around. We have a lot of retired people. There are plenty of females and many live alone. YOU MAY DIE OF BORDEM OUT HERE STARING AT CLEAR SKIES AND MORE STARS THAN YOU THOUGHT EXISTED BUT YOU HAVE MUCH MORE CHANCE OF DEATH BY MAN IN THE COASTAL AREAS. BRING BOOKS LOL!
rgb123, I think Nature boy is kind pulling your leg. I recently tripped across a secret meeting in the Back Room at "The Palms BAR (amboy road)" where the locals were plotting to keep people out through hook or crook. AS IN SCARE YOU OFF. "We got ours, ********* newbees. STOP GROWTH" What snakes and bugs? I own 6 properties out there and have yet to see anything but a dead NON POISONOUS snake on utah trail road and one black widow spider up against my house. Of course there are bugs but none in my vehicles, house or trailer. Plenty of harmless lizards and a giant Chuckawalla lives on my property. The lizards march by me with a face like, "beat it, your on MY property and march off." I was born, raised and have a lot of wilderness experience in all parts of California and there is nothing wildlife dangerous out here. I have a place near the main gate to 29. Marines? No problems. I live near US Marines on the coast (Oceanside) and Twentynine Palms. You will be very safe in the Valley. However, the summer heat may kill you. It is hot hot hot in summer. Fall, Winter and Spring are great. Getting stuck in sand is an issue I solved with 4X4 for myself and the wife. There are drugs and a lot of drinking but the people up here are more friendly and willing to talk and share than in the larger cities. And the cops do not mess around. We have a lot of retired people. There are plenty of females and many live alone. YOU MAY DIE OF BORDEM OUT HERE STARING AT CLEAR SKIES AND MORE STARS THAN YOU THOUGHT EXISTED BUT YOU HAVE MUCH MORE CHANCE OF DEATH BY MAN IN THE COASTAL AREAS. BRING BOOKS LOL!
Sounds like my kind of place!
I may be an old Hippie but; I have a hell of a lot for the USMC (and the rest of Armed Forces to boot)
Too; there seem to be a high number per capita of coffeehouses/artists in the 'Hi-Desert'
BTW: I live in Phx so desert critters do not scare me.
In all fairness; I have heard stories that 'Wonder Valley' near 29 Palms is sketchy.
My husband was in Marine Corps, stationed at 29Palms from 85-89. We never heard of problems caused by Marines, robbing businesses etc. If anything, it was just problems caused by drunk Marines fighting, but never real crimes. I always felt totally safe in 29Palms!
Editing to add, Amboy was a freaky place. I can't remember specifically but I know when my husband had Marines out and they were driving through Amboy, they really stayed together. There was some diner out there and they were never to go alone to the bathrooms or anything.
Hi, I have read the conversation about the Yucca Valley area. I came here after seeing a cabin online that I fell in love with and could afford to buy. After arriving I discovered it was in Landers and there are no buses that go to or from that area. I don't drive so it was a no go. But during that weekend I fell in love with Yucca Valley/Joshua Tree. It is not a small town, but a nice size community. Alot of seniors and retirees. But equally there are lots of artists and musicians here. As for bugs, I have only heard the horror stories. I have only actually seen one of the varieties of cockroach outside. There are plenty of ants, but only one type has ever come into my home. The tiniest black ants with a nasty bite. I bought my trusty favorite by Terro. A clear sugury liquid that you put a few drops on the cardboard squares that come with it. Put it next to the swarm and walk away. Just when you think is isn't working, they are all gone. The best thing of all is they take it back to there hole and feed it to all the other ants, then the whole bunch die. That's it for bugs. I was told at the nature center that the scorpians here are not deadly, they are more like a bee sting (unless you have a compromised immune system.) There is everything here, men, women, children, seniors, gays and lesbians, it's a very tolorant community. And best of all I bought a home for what would have been a down payment any place else in CA. The desert is magical, beautiful, creatively stimulating and for me home. The thing to remember is, 29 palms is the cheapest place to buy a home, then Joshua Tree, then Morongo Valley, then Desert Hot Springs and then Yucca Valley. We have many thriving businesses, 4 grocerey stores, Whalmart (soon they will build a Super Whalmart.) A Home Depot. There is a decent bus system and you can go from 29 Palms to JT to YV to MV to DHS and then on to Palm Springs. I hope this helps to clarify things, it is not a bad place and there is no graffiti and very little if any gang type activity. Like the guy before me said, the law is hard on crime. We have the Highway Patrol, San Bernardino Sherrifs and the Yucca Valley Police. Come visit and see for yourself, you will either fall in love with it or high tail it back to the city. But give it a chance if you want a peaceful like, little stress and very friendly people.
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I do think it would be fascinating for awhile.
Nature Boy...Morongo Valley Twentynine Palms
Just bought a home here last year
