The Mississippi River defines the topography of Baton Rouge (Red Stick). Along with bluffs and levees, the city is situated on the east side of the river. The high land with meadows and woods protected Native Americans and early Europeans from floods. Today, where plantations once flourished, there’s a bustling city. Ancient oak trees draped with Spanish moss, azaleas, magnolias, and other semitropical plants create a lush parklike setting in neighborhoods throughout the region. Well-planned community parks tucked in distinctive subdivisions offer a variety of recreation and special-interest programs. Starting from downtown on the Mississippi, the city spreads out like a giant fan. Asked what makes Baton Rouge so appealing, Mayor-President Melvin L. “Kip” Holden said, “The people and their spirit. We never meet a stranger, and we have a knack for putting things together that highlight what we are all about.”
Towering above the downtown skyline is the State Capitol, which was completed in 1932. The Art Deco structure and state governmental buildings anchor the north side of town, while within a short walking distance, city government structures guard the south side. Two historic neighborhoods, Spanish Town and Beauregard Town, feature a variety of architectural styles, ranging from antebellum to bungalow. Preservation groups support efforts to retain the character of these areas, where some residents can easily walk to work.
Baton Rouge has a parishwide system of government. In 1949 the city adopted a consolidated city-parish government, one of the first in the United States. Administered by a mayor-president and a city council, the town has been able to adapt well to economic and technological changes.
Baton Rouge’s blend of diverse people adds spice to the city’s quality of life. The influence of European, African, and Asian cultures may be found in the food, music, art, architecture, and growing businesses. Because of Hurricane Katrina in 2005, the city’s population swelled by thousands overnight. Population estimates used here are based on the most recent U.S. census, which was in 2000. African Americans make up about 50 percent of the population and whites about 46 percent. The area’s population also is made up of Native Americans, Asians, Native Hawaiians and other Pacific Islanders, and Hispanics or Latinos.
The link between the African-American community and Baton Rouge dates from the early 1700s when enslaved Africans were brought to southeast Louisiana by early planters. By the early 1800s many of their descendants were freed. Soon the population began to intermarry with Native Americans, Spanish, and French. The developing Creole population added to the rich cultural gumbo that makes up Louisiana. Today the U.S. Census Bureau estimates East Baton Rouge Parish’s population at 428,360. The city population is estimated at 229,553. The metro Baton Rouge region estimates a total of 700,000 to 800,000 people living in East Baton Rouge, West Baton Rouge, Ascension, Livingston, Iberville, East Feliciana, West Feliciana, Pointe Coupee, and St. Helena parishes.
For the most part Baton Rouge was relatively immune to the economic recession of 2009. Much of that was the result of hurricanes Katrina and Ike in 2005. The storms turned Baton Rouge into a boomtown overnight when thousands of evacuees found shelter in the city. Many chose to stay and work in the area. Another hurricane, Gustav, hit the town September 1, 2008, causing enormous damage, but residents were in the streets the next day with chain saws and hammers clearing out debris. Rebuilding efforts combined with the flood of new residents provided the city-parish government surplus revenues, mostly from sales taxes. In early 2009 sales tax revenues were up by 5.3 percent. The city-parish’s $690 million Green Light plan is designed to improve traffic flow on key surface roads. New neighborhoods provide a welcome retreat from bustling city streets. The new city economic and planning initiatives offer hope for a bright future.
With the Mississippi River serving as a major transportation link to the world, much of the area’s economy has revolved around the petrochemical plants. Dow Chemical on the west side of the river near Plaquemine is the largest petrochemical facility in Louisiana. ExxonMobil, one of the world’s largest refineries, just north of the State Capitol, is one of the area’s major employers. Fortune 500 member the Shaw Group, Inc.; Albemarle, a Fortune 1000 member; and Turner Industries are among the leading industries.
The Port of Baton Rouge in Port Allen on the west side of the Mississippi ranks among the country’s top 10 ports in tonnage. Adjacent to I-10, the port is situated at the convergence of the Mississippi River and the U.S. Gulf Intracoastal Waterway. The port is the head of deepwater navigation on the Mississippi and is capable of handling a wide range of products from agribusiness to general cargo. Oceangoing commercial vessels and huge barges can easily be viewed by walking along the downtown levee.
Social life is never dull in Red Stick. Numerous social and civic organizations sponsor major charitable events drawing large crowds. These benefit museums, performing arts groups, medical facilities, and many others. Among the many groups recognized for their efforts are the Rotary, Lions, Kiwanis, Masons, 100 Black Men, Fortune 35, Junior League, Symphony League, Baton Rouge Art League, The Links, and Quota Club. Other gatherings are strictly for fun, especially Mardi Gras balls and parades, as well as debutante presentations. On an informal scale, neighborhood block parties often spring up spontaneously, bringing people together on a moment’s notice.
Baton Rouge’s push to join the world as a first-class city is seldom outdone by its desire to have a good time. When things get tough, people in Baton Rouge work hard to recover. When work is done, residents follow the Cajun expression—“Laissez les bon temps roulez” (let the good times roll). Visitors are encouraged to join in the fun, especially for Mardi Gras, St. Patrick’s Day, Christmas, and Fourth of July. Festivals incorporate food, dancing, music, and neighborly goodwill.
If you want to dance to a Cajun band, hear a gospel choir in an African-American church, walk beneath an alley of ancient oaks, or just read a really good book in a comfy lounge chair, someone will help you find the right spot.
Want to feel the drama of the wide Mississippi River where French explorers found the first high land above the flowing water? Step into an old arsenal built by U.S. Army troops to defend America’s frontier? Watch politicians and lobbyists dance a few side-steps? Sip a mint julep and stroll the 19th-century gardens around a plantation mansion? Or you may prefer to attend a knock-’em-dead football game, with wide-screen digitized scoreboards and thousands of screaming fans.
If ever there was a place to do it all—in a week, a year, or just one day—it’s Baton Rouge. Louisiana’s capital city is a destination that appeals to just about everyone. No matter what your age, gender, or ethnicity, you’ll find attractions that fit your interests. Some recall glory days of the past. Others provoke thoughts of romance, power, or fame. Turn one corner and absorb an expansive landscape. At another spot, just enjoy plain fun.
Baton Rouge enjoys a flourishing arts scene. The arts in this city just keep growing. In recent years city officials have recognized the importance the arts play in the city’s overall image and quality of life. There’s seldom a time when you can’t find an ongoing cultural event that will enhance your stay.
The arts scene is diverse and widespread, thanks in part to the efforts of the Baton Rouge Arts Council and the work of students and professors of Louisiana State University, Southern University, and Baton Rouge Community College. Among those associated with these institutions are professional actors, musicians, and artists, many of whom have appeared in films, on stages, and at galleries throughout the world. Their contributions to the community are enormous. Equally important are the efforts of arts activists and businesses that contribute time and money to support regional events.
This chapter lists a number of venues, public and commercial galleries, and resources for the culture vulture and the art lover in all of us. Listings are grouped according to type (art, theater, dance, and cinema) and resources. You’ll find descriptions of traditional and nontraditional performance spaces. A selection of major galleries is included, but you will find visual art throughout town in places such as restaurants and coffee shops. We have also included community theaters that present outstanding productions.
There’s no doubt that Baton Rouge is a family-friendly city. Activities often center on family life—spending a day at the zoo, attending a football game, or participating in a church festival. Families on vacation can feel comfortable joining in the fun. Baton Rouge Parents magazine is an excellent source for family activities. Published monthly, the magazine carries helpful articles, such as a column with dads advising dads. The monthly calendar lists events for both adults and kids, including festivals, free classes at libraries, and family fun and fitness events. You can check the calendar at www.brparents.com. Other sources include the listing of events in the Advocate’s Fun section each Friday and the Baton Rouge Convention and Visitor’s Bureau Web site, www.visitbatonrouge.com.
Some visitors picture Louisiana as the land of swamps and bayous. Others think of people sitting around speaking Cajun French, eating platters of boiled crawfish. Some may look for cities with unusual shops, sophisticated dining, and a nightlife that never ends. Well, they’re right. To find all this and more, you need to explore. Baton Rouge is the ideal hub for day trips.
Head west and drive across the striking Atchafalaya Basin to view one of America’s vast untamed natural heritage areas. In Lafayette view a world-class contemporary art museum. Driving east, antiques buffs can look for untold treasures in Ponchatoula or Denham Springs. Drives south of town lead to dramatic antebellum mansions and swamp tours. North leads to communities settled by English colonists, Civil War battlefields, and hills perfect for hiking and biking.