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Yew, and that's with Dino oil. Mobile 1 is full synthetic, guaranteed for 10,000 miles. $90 once a year for many drivers, is not a bad price. Wasting good oil at 5,000 miles is making your dealer money that you are throwing away.
My wife's Infiniti has a 7500 mile interval. I use synthetic. Since she doesn't drive much in a year it's usually a once a year deal. The only trucks I do at 5k are my diesels and those don't get driven much but I'm thinking of switching to synthetic. I just wish I could use the same oil on both my diesels and my wife's gasser. I would just buy a 55 gallon drum. With two diesels that's not much oil
My 2014 Impala takes 6 quarts of Mobile 1 as required. Is there really $50 worth of value here vs regular oil? Every 5000 miles this is getting pricey.
Your title says it costs you $90, and here you're saying $50. Not sure which is which.
Anyway, unless your warranty requires you to use Mobile 1, you can use any synthetic oil, provided it's the right viscosity and SG rating. That'll save you some money.
Just the other day, I very happily paid $75 for a complete annual check-up including Mobil 1 and Filter Change for my Chevrolet with an LS2 at the local Chevy Dealer.
A $75 service once a year is worth the "Peace of Mind" even though I rarely drive more than about 3k miles a year.
Like others have said, sounds like you're not getting as much mileage as you can out of M1 synthetic. While I believe many people are victims of their superior advertising and hype machine, they're not a "bad" oil but certainly not the "best" if you were to stack them against Pennzoil, Red Line, Amsoil, etc.
But if that's 5,000 miles with a lot of stop/go and idle, which are hard on engines, then I could see 5,000 mile changes being necessary.
My understanding is that many GM vehicles have the OLM (oil life meter) which tells you when to change the oil. That is more accurate, IMO, than going by mileage. The OLM uses equations based on mileage, heat cycles, RPMs, temperature, etc. to calculate wear. And if the OLM was calibrated for an engine that came from the factory with dino oil, I personally believe it's safe to say that synthetic will exceed what the OLM tells you.
Remember that Mobil 1 gets a lot of publicity from being factory fill for a lot of sports cars. I know the Corvette is one and Porsche may be another. Genius marketing on their part.
$90 for a full synthetic change along with a tire rotation, visual inspection of brake pads and top off of fluids doesn't sound too ridiculous. They have bills to pay, too.
I pay the shop $85 to change the oil on my Cummins. Wix filter with Shell Rotella 15W-30 oil. It gets changed every 7,500 miles. Fuel filter gets changed every other oil change (DIY). I don't know that Mobil 1 is the best oil on the market honestly. I ran it in my Polaris RZR (Polaris rebranded the oil as their PS4 oil) and had a lot of valve ticking on a cold startup. Switched to Amsoil and haven't had a problem since.
Your title says it costs you $90, and here you're saying $50. Not sure which is which.
Anyway, unless your warranty requires you to use Mobile 1, you can use any synthetic oil, provided it's the right viscosity and SG rating. That'll save you some money.
Your Impala, regardless of engine is speced for a Dexos approved oil. While Mobile 1 is a fine oil, you dont need it. My delaer charges 40 bucks to change the oil and rotate the tires on my GMs, and the Ford dealer charges the same for my 2 Fords.
You can buy a five quart jug of MOBIL 1 at Wal-Mart for $25. It is not hard to change oil yourself. I just changed the oil in my Corolla buying five quarts of Toyota synthetic oil and a Toyota oil filter all purchased at the dealer for $35 and about 30 minutes of my time.
what do you do with the old oil you've drained out of the car?
The local dealer wanted $200 for an oil/filter change --- for a Smart Car.
At any rate, why not send a sample of your used engine oil off for oil analysis? That way, you'll have real data to know if you could extend the oil change interval (which I suspect you could). See www.bitog.com and https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...s.php?ubb=cfrm
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