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Really, most people just hold the case head in their fingers, rotate the neck in a propane flame, and drop into water.
You need to be careful to *not* heat the head, just the neck section. Holding the head in your hand insures you would know if it was starting to get hot.
The tempilac is a good idea, but most people don't use it.
It really goes without saying, you want to be damn sure you don't try to anneal a case with a live primer in it. That would take some weird, out of sequence reloading steps to get to, but, you can't be too sure. Even then, you would not be all that likely to fire the primer unless you were to overheat the case really badly.
I would be wearing good eye protection as well. Should not need it, but, I'm getting to the point that I just about live in safety or shooting glasses.
Yeah that looks easier, but think about this-
1. Ever try holding a cordless drill at a steady low speed turn?
2. Every try doing that with 100 or more pieces of brass?
I've thought about that. I want to set brass on a turntable, the flame already positioned, with a slow constant speed.
Yeah that looks easier, but think about this-
1. Ever try holding a cordless drill at a steady low speed turn?
2. Every try doing that with 100 or more pieces of brass?
I've thought about that. I want to set brass on a turntable, the flame already positioned, with a slow constant speed.
I just want to set on, flick off.
It doesn’t need to turn at a steady speed. As long as it’s going fast enough that a spot doesn’t burn, and slow enough that it doesn’t throw the brass out of the socket, it will work just fine.
Give it a try. You’ve probably got everything you need on your shop. I bet you’ll like it.
It doesn’t need to turn at a steady speed. As long as it’s going fast enough that a spot doesn’t burn, and slow enough that it doesn’t throw the brass out of the socket, it will work just fine.
Give it a try. You’ve probably got everything you need on your shop. I bet you’ll like it.
It doesn’t need to turn at a steady speed. As long as it’s going fast enough that a spot doesn’t burn, and slow enough that it doesn’t throw the brass out of the socket, it will work just fine.
Give it a try. You’ve probably got everything you need on your shop. I bet you’ll like it.
I think it does need to be relatively constant speed for one very good reason- consistency.
With the brass turning at the same speed, I can set the torch up and measure with tempilaq how many seconds it takes to anneal it before it goes roasty-toasty. Once I determine the appropriate amount of time it becomes repeatable at the same speed. Maybe spot check every 10th or 20th piece of brass to ensure consistency.
I'm pretty handy with a drill, but none of my cordless drills have a lock down on the trigger.
I have a small drill press I could run at a constant speed and I'm sure I could rig something up with that, but with a dedicated rotisserie motor I could frame up a little dedicated annealing station.
And when I get bored with annealing I could take a break and pop one of mama's homemade meatballs on the disc and have a snack.
Loaded up some .45acp rounds this weekend. First go at it, so slow and steady, lot's of measurements, trial and error, 'plunk' tests and so forth.. I've never had much of a cause to reload this caliber as practice 230gr FMJ is pretty cheap on bulk group buys around here. But what they hey.. I've got some time on my hands...
Gonna try some 200gr Hornady XTP's pushed by Unique powder. Pretty light load to start. If I can work to 850-900fps with an accurate, reliable load I'd be happy.
Also went to my local gun store, the owner had a plastic baggy with some cast RN lead .452- 23 in total. He gave them to me. Soooo.. Will push those with Unique as well. I was mindful to keep the shoulder just a kiss above the brass to help feed them- so we'll see.
I have no expectations from this other than to see if they go BANG and feed reliably (and hit the 20yd target).
.45 ACP is very easy to load with a cast bullet, something like the H&G 68 or similar, 200 grain cast, make sure the bullets are big enough in diameter to fit *your* barrel. If you get leading, most likely the bullets are too small and/or too hard. .45 does not need a linotype bullet.
Most commercially available cast bullets are pretty well standardized in .45ACP, more so than say a 9mm Luger. By that I mean most barrels are right at .452, and the bullet casters know this. 9mm Luger barrels vary more. Rounds like the 38 special and 45 ACP that have been used for bullseye target shooting tend to benefit from better standardization.
In my old Gold Cup, I like to load this bullet with 3.5 grains of Bullseye, this does not make major power factor if you care about that, but it is a good plinking load. Unique works well too.
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