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When should they be used?
As I have a tendency to use silica packs in combination with O2 absorbers, even when packaging dry goods; which I'm guessing is not necessary.
Question:
Salt and sugar have been used for millenia to dry and preserve meats, usually in combination with air drying or smoke.
Does this qualify in your discussion, or is it focused on chemical dissacants only?
Heat or partial cooking have also been used for preservation, and drying, for instance: parched corn.
Reason I ask is because modern chemical dissacants may not always be available.
When should they be used?
As I have a tendency to use silica packs in combination with O2 absorbers, even when packaging dry goods; which I'm guessing is not necessary.
Some way to keep dry food dry is always necessary, except in climates where Barrel Cactus rule.
In the other thread, Submariner mentioned: "I found some that turn pink when it is dry, and some that turn blue when it is saturated. I mix them."
Question:
Salt and sugar have been used for millenia to dry and preserve meats, usually in combination with air drying or smoke.
Does this qualify in your discussion, or is it focused on chemical dissacants only?
Heat or partial cooking have also been used for preservation, and drying, for instance: parched corn.
Reason I ask is because modern chemical desiccant may not always be available.
Natural solutions should be discussed.
I doubt any of this will take more than a dozen postings to cover the topic, but the result should be worthwhile.
This might be considered another natural solution, probably not worth more than a post or two:
For years, when I had an uninsulated (and quite permeable) garage, with a cement floor, I would open stuff (like ammo) when the temperature outside was below freezing. The temperature in the garage would hover a few degrees above freezing. The combinations made the air very dry, and I could inspect the contents and do inventories in that environment without introducing moisture.
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(I can discuss the physics behind the ideas, but it require some significant mathematics.)
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I doubt any of this will take more than a dozen postings to cover the topic, but the result should be worthwhile.
This might be considered another natural solution, probably not worth more than a post or two:
For years, when I had an uninsulated (and quite permeable) garage, with a cement floor, I would open stuff (like ammo) when the temperature outside was below freezing. The temperature in the garage would hover a few degrees above freezing. The combinations made the air very dry, and I could inspect the contents and do inventories in that environment without introducing moisture.
.
(I can discuss the physics behind the ideas, but it require some significant mathematics.)
.
I live in a very harsh environment, but one with very low humidity. That combined with a lot of sub zero temperatures, means our situation is different from areas that are more temperate with higher humidity. Leave a deer out on the meat pole during a cold snap, and it will just about freeze dry.
It's easy to air dry thin slices of meat but heavier cuts need salt or sugar to draw out some of the moisture. I love prosciutto, but having a place to cure it where there aren't massive swings in temperature during the curing process is difficult.
A cellar works best, but you have to have good air circulation.
One thing that turns off some folks with natural curing is that sometimes you can get mold on the outside of the meat. It doesn't mean the meat is bad or tainted, you can just wash off the mold, or trim it and the preserved meat is just fine. In fact some cured sausages and salamis need that non-toxic mold to cure properly and have the distinctive flavor it's known for.
Brine cured meats like Corned Beef require a LOT of salt. Most modern methods rely on curing salys which are sodium nitrate and give the meat a distinctive red color, production methods for curing bacon, ham etc. rely heavily on injecting the brine into the meat instead of brining by soaking the meat.
Injection is quicker, but doesn't produce as good a product, and the modern stuff isn't really preserved so it spoils just about as quick as raw meat.
Traditionally cured meats can remain good for up to three years if made right and held in the proper conditions.
There are different types of silica desiccants. Some can be "recharged" 5-10 times, some hundreds of times, and there is an industrial variety that cannot be reused. The rechargeable types can get contaminated and make them unable to be recharged. Also, overheating desiccant can reduce it's lifespan. If what you are trying to preserve is valuable, it may be a good idea to use new desiccant.
Oxygen absorbers require some amount of moisture to work. Combining them with silica can render the absorbers inert.
I might be side tracking a bit going further on with the oxygen absorbers (because they are not desiccants), I've read elsewhere that some people use hand warmers as oxygen absorbers. I did more research on it and while they DO absorb oxygen, they generally aren't recommended for this purpose because they can cause heat damage to whatever it is you are trying to protect, and they aren't as effective as products dedicated to the function of absorbing oxygen. But if one was in a pinch and that's all they had it MIGHT be better than nothing.
Oxygen absorbers require some amount of moisture to work. Combining them with silica can render the absorbers inert.
Thanks for this info.
I can only add, it worked for a year and a half on homemade beef jerky; heat sealed in mylar/ziplock. And some ancient grain cereal for 2 1/2 years.
And I remember you posting this a while back in my food storage tips thread.
I have a ton of rice beans stored in this fashion, and due to your post; have considered repacking them minus the silica.
Thoughts....anyone?
I once had dealings with a person who saved all desiccant packs he found in packaging (like the type that come in shoe boxes) and threw them in his gun safe. I always thought there wasn't enough desiccant to really make a difference in that big of a space (5ft tall gun safe).
Thanks for this info.
I can only add, it worked for a year and a half on homemade beef jerky; heat sealed in mylar/ziplock. And some ancient grain cereal for 2 1/2 years.
And I remember you posting this a while back in my food storage tips thread.
I have a ton of rice beans stored in this fashion, and due to your post; have considered repacking them minus the silica.
Thoughts....anyone?
Commercial beef jerky is 15-25% moisture. When I buy commercial packages, they are packed with an oxygen absorber. I don't think adding desiccant to jerky is going to affect the oxygen absorber because there is enough moisture in the meat for both. But it might make it harder to chew.
As far as the rice and beans go, the only thing I've read is that BROWN rice contains oils prone to rancidity, oxygen absorbers remove oxygen, creating an anaerobic environment that can accelerate this process, spoiling the rice faster. WHITE rice can benefit from an oxygen absorber, while desiccant can over-dry the rice, making it harder and more time consuming to cook. I tend to err on the side of caution- would rather have hard, chewy rice than moldy rice. So as far as rice is concerned, I would only remove the oxygen absorbers if you are storing brown rice.
As far as beans go, maybe someone else can chime in.
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