City: Kansas City, MO

Category: Restaurants

Telephone: (816) 545-8000

Description: With a sparkling view of downtown and the city’s only Mobil Four-Star rating, this American beauty is the place to woo a lover or wow a client. The soaring space was designed by Walter Platner two years before he did Manhattan’s late, great Windows on the World, and it is stunning, especially when shutters on the floor-to-ceiling windows are opened just at sunset. Don’t be surprised when a room of delighted diners bursts into applause. The food easily matches the theatrics. The legendary James Beard was brought in as a consultant in 1974 to create refined yet soul-warming interpretations of classic American cooking. Mr. Beard would be proud. In charge of the kitchen is James Beard award winner (for Best Chef in the Midwest 1999) Debbie Gold, who resumed her reign here several years after leaving the American with then husband, Michael Smith, to open 40 Sardines in Overland Park. Debbie’s menu pays homage to the Midwest’s bounty of meats, game, and produce. But before you think “meat, potatoes, and plenty of gravy,” take a look at a recent midwinter menu: pumpkin ravioli, free-range pheasant, a meltingly tender sable fish, and artisanal cheese platter. And you’ve never had a Peppermint Patty quite like this. The service is stellar as well under general manager Jamie Jamison’s sure hand. Watch for the special events like wine dinners Jamie hosts here; they are quite spectacular. And chances are if you ask for “the usual” at the bar, you’ll get it. Willie Grandison, named Best Bartender in the Country by Playboy and Cheers magazine, has been holding court here for 30 years. A note on dress: although the American has eased its formal reputation—jackets at dinner are merely suggested now—it’s still a refined restaurant where you might see black tie and ball gowns before opening night at the Lyric Opera. The American is open for dinner only.